If you have a bow, you need arrows. If you have a longbow, you need wooden arrows, you shouldn't really use other types.
These instructions are for wooden arrows using modern techniques and materials. You can make traditional arrows, but for this blog I'm focussing on day-to-day arrows.
I've found that one of the best parts of archery is making your own arrows. You can do what you like to make them individual, and believe me this is useful when you are counting up your score when three archers have been using the same target!
It's actually great fun, but I can't pretend that it'll save you money, and it certainly won't save you time...
I would recommend that for your first set of arrows that you buy them from the same place you buy the bow if possible. If you can't, then for your first set take the bow to the shop so they can see you draw it, know the exact size and weight of the bow, and can measure your draw. This means that when you create your own, you know exactly what you need to do.
Arrows can be fairly expensive, but I would suggest that you create them in sets of twelve. If you create eight, then you only have two spares to loose, break or have the flights flatten before you're running into trouble. Then it wouldn't be practical to enter competitions, and I know the other archers will be less than pleased if you have to retrieve an arrow to complete a half-dozen!
I would advise that for your first attempt you make one arrow, this way you can troubleshoot any issues you find on the way without having multiple arrows waiting to be done.
Warning: Once you have made your arrows, you'll have to wait at least 24 hours from putting the points on before using them. This is to give the Araldite time to set. If you add the nocks with Araldite, you'll have to wait 24 hours from then.
Colour Scheme
For a beginner I would recommend brightly coloured flights. My first set was black with a red cock feather, but I originally wanted green. Thankfully they didn't have green feathers in stock, or I might never have found them again in the grass! If you can, get spare feathers to re-fletch the arrows. It's best that they are taken from the same stock, as feathers supplied months down the line will be different, and will affect flight.
You can see three colour schemes by me below.
Just a thought... don't invest too much time on the arrows. Although a fleur-de-lis pattern hand drawn all over the shaft would be lovely, it could be in ruins seconds after you've fired the arrow for the first time. You may break a bow as an archer, you will certainly break arrows.
Flight Size
Flight size is also important. This will depend on your range and the season.
For example big flights are good for shorter distances, high poundage bows and indoors, as they make the arrow slow down.
Smaller flights make the arrow faster. As I joined just before summer, my first set had 3" flights, but I did ask for advice.
I now have three sets, shown here.
The green, white and black arrows are for indoors, the flights are about 5".
The purple and white set are all purpose, and have 3" flights.
The yellow and red set are for long distances (over 60 yards) and have 2" flights.
Nocks
The nock is the part of the arrow that clips onto the string.
Although black nocks look good, it's worth considering that a lot of people pick them, and going for an obscure colour will make it easier to pick out your arrows from a busy target.
I haven't seen an archer that uses totally traditional nocks that are cut into the wood, I suspect it's because they break too easily, and can't be replaced.
Points
As for points (or piles), I would ask for recommendations. Try to go for points that are flush with the arrow shaft as they are easier to remove. Remember that GNAS rules state that the arrow should do as little damage to the target as possible, so although it's fun to shoot with totally period arrows, they may not be allowed.
Heavy points will drag the arrow down, making them good for short distances. They may also force the arrow to one side.
Lighter points (100 grains or lighter) are better for longer distances as they move the balance point of the arrow back towards the flights. This means that the arrows don't tip once the energy is spent.
Shafts
I would try to get Port Orford Cedar, or you could try Austrian Fir. Pine does tend to break easier than cedar, but are lighter.
You will need to match your bow to the weight and length of the arrow shaft.
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