Equipment: making arrows

 There is quite a list of equipment needed to make arrows. Where there are alternatives I've listed them for you, but I personally wouldn't skimp on buying any of it, I'd buy the best you can.

Warning: Arrow making involves using tools and chemicals. Please read all instructions on these items carefully, and wear suitable protective equipment. Please use all stains, glues and varnishes in a well aired environment.

Specialist Tools

Fletching Jig

You can use a bulldog clip and apply the fletchings by hand, however, a jig is useful for consistency. It also creates the correct 120 degree angle for each of the three fletchings.

Taper Tool

This is used to taper the ends of the arrows to allow you to fit the point and nock.

You could use a pencil sharpener, but the correct tool is the exact size required for the points and nocks, so will give you the best results.

Shafts

Port Orford Cedar is the most prized type of wood. You can use pine, but they tend to break with more frequency.

I buy mine ready prepared from online shops, you can create your own if you want to.

Fletchings

Feather is generally used on traditional wooden arrows.

You could use plastic, they won't crush if they get wet, but they lose a little something, feather is better. You could also be disqualified from competitions if you want to shoot the longbow, plus also plastic fletchings are harder and sharper, and will cut your hand more than feather.

The size of fletching matters, large fletchings look impressive but will slow the arrows down. Great for indoors or close range for larger bows.

Small fletchings will not slow the arrow down so it should go faster and further, the drawback being that they have less stability in flight.

You should always use feathers from the left wing of the bird, never mix right and left wing feathers as this causes instability in the arrows.

Nocks

Whatever colour you fancy! You can buy nocks that are easily replaceable, but I don't know how often that would be useful. Most of my arrows have broken before the nocks get smashed.

I tend to use the plastic ones, which are less romantic than nocks made directly from the shaft of the arrow. The advantage of plastic nocks is that they grip the string better, and last longer.

Points

Again, it's up to you. Heavier points will shift the point of centre for the arrow forwards, which is good for shorter ranges. There are also a range of styles, and most of the time it's personal preference.

Just be warned though, GNAS rules state that you should do as little damage to the targets as possible. So medieval arrow points with large hooks will probably we banned, or at least frowned on under normal circumstances. Check with your club before making them.

DIY-Store Buys

Araldite glue

This is used for the point. You should only use Araldite or similar two tube glue as other glues can't take the strain or heat of the impact of an arrow.

Super glue

Good for the fletchings and nock, although Araldite is also useable.

Super glue is better for the fletchings as you can squeeze on what you need, and not waste glue. This also gives you the time to do each fletching carefully, and not have to hurry through all of them.

Junior hacksaw

Used for trimming the arrows. You can buy specialist saws, but they tend to be expensive. It's best if the saw has small teeth as this will cut down on possible damage.

Stanley knife

Used for trimming the fletchings plus any wood.

Fine wire wool

Used for preparing the arrows.

Varnish

You should try to protect your arrows from the wet when you shoot on damp days as they could warp. Varnishing them lightly helps.

Stains and Paints

Decorating your arrows adds individuality and helps you to easily identify them in the target...or in the ground!