Bows

 

A longbow is defined as 'a stick that's 70% broken'. Which is seriously what you're getting. When you make a longbow there's a lot of shaping involved, but the majority of the work comes in tilling the bow, basically breaking the fibres in the wood to 'teach' it to bend.

The bow will be the single most expensive item you buy. If you are going for a longbow, you should be aware that it is a very expensive stick, expect to pay around 280 for a basic model.

Buying

When you buy your first bow, be prepared to search for it. Longbows are increasing in popularity, but are still not stocked in great numbers. The only time I would advise you not to listen to the salesman is if they try to persuade you to go for a recurve bow to start with. If you want to go longbow, then there is no reason why you shouldn't start with one. Just remember, although recurve and longbows share similar equipment, you will still have to re-buy most things like arrow and shooting gloves once you switch.

However, if you do feel it's a massive investment, just remember that if you start with a recurve, then the skills you learn can be transferred to a longbow later.

I would advise that you go for a ready-made bow, and don't buy it over the Internet. In fact I don't think I'd advise anyone to buy a bow over the Internet even from a reputable dealer, it's far better to try before you buy, as bows from the same maker, and even the same draw, can vary greatly. You could go straight to the craftsman and get a bespoke bow, but the only problem with this is that if you are new to archery, you may not be aware of what you actually want or need, and could make a very expensive mistake. By buying a bow that you can try out in the shop's range, you know what you are getting.

I would also advise that you do not go for the first bow you try, even if there is only one in the shop. I did for my first bow, even though I really wasn't sure that the bow was 'right', but my inexperience led me to believe it was me not shooting correctly. That bow broke the first time I used it, and in the hunt for a second bow I came across the one I shoot now. This one draws like a dream, and makes me very glad that the first one broke! If I had tried the two bows one after another I wouldn't have gone for the first bow.

Draw Length and Weight

Draw length is basically the distance from the string to the front of the bow when you are pulling back to shoot.

The weight of the bow is the amount of power it takes to draw back the bow to the stated draw length. So if you can only pull a bow to 90% of the stated draw length, you will only get 90% of the power.

Unfortunately there isn't a quick and fast rule for choosing the draw length and weight of a bow.  I'm tall and have long arms, so my draw length is about 28" with a 72" tall bow.

The first bow I went for had a weight of #32, but I had trouble drawing it. The second bow was #35, but I found it easier to draw, perhaps because of the way it was made, or the woods used. Really all you can do is try before you buy!

Just a quick note, although you can go for more powerful bows, remember that if you have to shoot indoors at 20-30 yards, a #30-#35 bow is more useful than a heavier one, so can be a good starting bow.

There are a variety of woods you can choose from, and each craftsman will have their own preferences. Mine is bamboo fronted and is nice and whippy, but again it's how the bow shoots that is important.

Getting Started

It's an intimidating moment, shooting with your bow for the first time. With a bit of luck you will have made a friend of an experienced archer from the starter's course, who will be with you the first time you shoot.

This can help, I had a member of my club with me when my first bow broke after about 30 arrows, and he was able to assure me I did nothing wrong.  He also lent me arrows, as I was waiting for mine to be made, and after my bow broke, lent me one of his own bows.