You need to start the arrow at one end or another, and the point (or pile) is a good place to begin.
Tip: If you are mass-producing arrows you can always work on multiple arrows at the same time, this can help save glue for example as you don't have to keep mixing it.
Rub the shaft down with fine wire wool to make sure the surface is as clean and smooth as possible. Wipe with a cloth to remove any sawdust.
Use the point part of your taper tool to trim down one end of the shaft. The tool should stop you from going too far, but it's a good idea to periodically check the length as you use it, at least until you've done this a few times.
Tip: Check how straight the arrow is before cutting the point. You can then either pick the straightest end, or remove the ends if they appear to be bent. Just make sure the arrow is still long enough to use!
Check the point fits, but don't push it on solidly yet.
Before you stain or paint, it you should look at the grain of the arrow and work out which is the 'top' and 'bottom' of the arrow. The grain should run forward on the top of the shaft, and backwards on the bottom.
If the arrow breaks, the break is most likely to happen along the grain, and hopefully the splinters will be forced upwards rather than into your hand.
Breaking arrow
At the same time, you need to check the end grain and make sure it is running parallel with the cock feather. This helps to keep the arrow as stiff as possible.
The throat of the nock is the part that goes on the string. The cock feather wants to go at a 90° angle to the throat, so it sticks out and doesn't interfere with the flight of the arrow.
So you need to mark the top of the shaft, and make sure the grain is running straight at the end.
Tip: Don't forget to transfer the mark when you cut down the shaft, and make sure it's low enough not to get hidden when you add the nock!
Extra Step: If you want to stain the shaft of the arrow, do it now. Although you will be cutting the arrow down and fitting the nock, it's a good idea to add stain before any glue is added. The glue will act as a resist, and you'll end up with unstained patches.
You should leave the arrow to dry for 24 hours after painting or staining before adding the point.
I created a sophisticated stand (a block of wood with holes in) to hold the shafts in place while I stained, with one finger holding the top, while the other hand used a sponge to apply the stain.
Mix a small amount of Araldite glue and apply it to the shaft.
Push the point on, being careful to keep it straight. Use a wall to set the point well.
Clean off any spare glue. This isn't just for presentation reasons, it will add weight and drag...even if it's just a tiny amount!
Warning: If there is a gap between the point and the shaft, this will create a weakness in the arrow, and also mean that it could get stuck in the target. If you hit the ground the gap will also fill with muck, throwing off your carefully balanced arrow!
You can now move on to adding the nock.
Comments
Post a Comment